How to Identify a Pure Kanjivaram Silk Saree?
Kanjivaram silk sarees are among the most prized jewels in Indian handloom heritage. Born in the temple town of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, the sarees are famous for their deep colors, smooth texture, and fine zari work. They are not only clothes; they are heirloom sarees, passed generation after generation. Although, the popularity of Kanjivaram silk has also increased a great number of imitations in the market. Being a consumer, it becomes imperative to understand how to identify an original pure Kanjivaram silk saree and an imitation one.
In case you are looking for investing in this ageless piece of Indian art, here is a step-by-step guide to spot an original Kanjivaram silk saree.
1. Verify the Silk Mark Label
The easiest and most credible method of ensuring authenticity is to search for the Silk Mark certification. The Silk Mark Organisation of India gives this tag and it is an assurance that the saree is pure silk. A true Kanjivaram saree from well-known stores will most likely have this certification. If a saree lacks a Silk Mark label, beware of buying it.
2. The Zari Test
One of the most distinctive aspects of a Kanjivaram saree is its golden zari borders and motifs. In a genuine Kanjivaram, zari is woven from actual silver threads that are gold-dipped. To test this:
Examine the zari closely. In genuine sarees, the zari will appear to have a reddish or coppery undertone due to the silver.
Compared to this, imitation sarees employ plastic or synthetic zari that appears excessively shiny and lacks the understated richness of gold work.
A thread test may also be performed: gently pull out a tiny zari string and set it alight. If it burns to become ash, it is genuine; if it melts like plastic, it’s not genuine.
3. The Joint and Weave Test
Kanjivaram sarees are renowned for the exclusive weaving technique applied. The border and the body of the saree are woven separately and interlocked afterwards by a specific interlocking weave called Korvai.
This joint in a traditional saree is so strong that if you attempt to split the body and the border, they will not detach.
Spurious sarees usually also contain border stitching or gluing, which flakes off within two or three washes.
One of the distinguishing features of a genuine Kanjivaram silk saree is this Korvai style.
4. The Sheen of the Fabric
Pure silk carries a natural sheen which is impacted when viewed from different perspectives. This is due to the nature of the silk strands themselves, reflecting light in a unique way. Hold the saree in sunlight or white light and tilt it a bit. If the tone of the color is a bit different, you’re holding real silk. Polyester or synthetic silk will look dull and lifeless in comparison.
5. Weight of the Saree
A genuine Kanjivaram silk saree is heavier than the synthetic ones. This is due to the fact that pure mulberry silk and gold/silver zari threads naturally weigh the fabric. Even a plain pure Kanjivaram with no heavy work will be heavy in hand.
6. Price Tells a Story
Kanjivaram sarees are time-consuming, and one saree may take 10–15 days or even months to weave, depending u pon the design. Pure silk blended with original zari increases their cost. If a vendor sells you a Kanjivaram saree at an outrageously low cost, it is probably not real. Keep in mind that genuine material and labor are always costly.